Clearwater (english)

https://vimeo.com/152001933

Clearwater

Preamble

Hellmeken Falls, third biggest waterfall in Canada
Wells Grey provincial park

Canadian summer should be one of the best summers a nature lover could ask for. It starts coldly but when the heat begins to show one sees nature work and breathe, rivers begin to rise gradually to appear vigorous and strong then go losing its flow throughout the summer that extends until mid September. Gradually the activity of the valley begins to be evident, bears awaken from their hibernations and go hunting for food to regain strength and prepare for the coming winter, bald eagles begin to arrive in search of fish which moves from the Pacific ocean to the headwaters of rivers.

In a few places like British Columbia you can see the salmon run; from the pacific ocean after spending an average 4-year cycle the salmon genetically remembers the exact coordinates of where they were born and like magic they travel in that direction in a tireless journey where the only important thing for them is to reach destination to deposit their eggs and then wait patiently for the end of his days. This creates a large gathering of animals such as bears, bald eagles, Ospreys and many more which feed on these fish.

The British Columbia province it is where I spent my days, to be more specific in the area of ​​Interior on the town of Clearwater, where about 2500 people inhabit and live working on the forest industry mostly though many of them in the summer time are dedicated to various tourist activities as this town is the gateway to Wells Grey provincial park, the third largest provincial park in Canada.

Discovery of the area.

The Clearwater River was discovered in 1862 by the group known as The Overlanders, which was sailing the waters of the North Thompson River trying to find better routes to the Pacific in an attempt to improve and streamline the trade in beaver pelts witch in those times was one of the most important currencies exchange that the north of America had with Europe. When meeting with the river and notice the stark contrast between the brown waters of Thompson River and the crystal clear water of  this new river was that they decided to call it Clearwater. In 1863 the first tourists, Lord Milton and Dr. Chedale arrived in the area solidifying the name of Clearwater to publish it in his travel journal called The Northwest Passage.

Clearwater lake.

The river runs a total of 201 km from its source to its confluence with the North Thopmson, borns in glaciers of the Cariboo mountains and only its last 5 km are outside the Wells Grey provincial park, the third largest provincial park in Canada greater in extent than some small European countries like Holland.

There are two large lakes on the Clearwater River Hobson Lake and Clearwater Lake, the latter from the rising of the river and its geographic conformation.

Land Bridge overlook on the Clearwater river

During the years 1872 and 1881, there were some 20 different groups in British Columbia exploration which looked for the best routes to build railways between Yellohead Pass on the Rockies and the Pacific coast. Of these groups 3 visited the area now known as Wells Grey, but eventually an appropriate path was not found to achieve the construction of roads and when they finish choosing the pass of Kicking Horse farther south in 1881 all the routes examined in the area of ​​Clearwater were dismissed, leaving only three names after 10 years of exploration: the river and Murtle lake, river and Mahood lake and Marcus falls.

Settlement

It was very difficult to achieve settlements on the banks of the river as there were no proper lands for planting, the nearest of all was the one  of John Ray who came to the area in 1911 and settled in the valley of Clearwater about 55km from the confluence with Thompson river. His nearest neighbor was Michael Majerus about 16 km away.

Wells Grey provincial park entrance

Ray clean his land and achieve to become self-sufficient by making only one or two trips a year to Hundred Mile to change skins for groceries. He lived alone until 1932 and at 54 married Alice Ludtke 20 years, with whom he had three children in her small, remote cabin. In 1946, they decided to move to Clearwater so children could have a proper education at school. This move took a few trips to the remote cabin but John never returned from his last trip in December 1947. Some family friends walked to the cabin to find that John had died of a heart attack there. As of the date the cabin is in a state of deterioration and the house has collapsed. B.C. Parks has no funds for the restoration of the buildings but the trails are in good condition to lead you there.

Fishing

The Clearwater River was famous for its fabulous fishing in early 1940. The family Mcdiarmid built four cabins on the east bank of the river between streams Grouse Creek and Mahood river. in 1950 they began with the construction of Trophies Mountain Lodge, named after trophy fish that were obtained on the river, as the headquarters operations. During the 50's and 60' they had a great success with the business and had great people who came from around the world to experience fishing in the river, in their guest list there was names like Vanderblits, DuPonts, R.H.

Salmons at the Raft and Thompson rivers confluence

MacMillan and even semi royalty as Wallis Simpson. After the road on the west bank of the river was built the river became of easy access and fast the river was overfished which ended with the business of McDiarmid which closed in 1970.

Let out of the Raft river canyon, awesome kayak run

As of date, there are strong regulations that try to help the river to recover, fishing is allowed only with barbless hooks without bait and only catch and release, these rules are effective from 1994 and although they have helped a little to the recovery of fish in the river this is taking place in a very gradual way. The price to pay for the excessive human nature.

Rafting

The history of rafting begins in 1983 with the arrival of some of the first adventurers to the area and with the growth and explosion of rafting as activity worldwide. One of them is Doug Trotter today owner of Interior Whitewater Adventures, the largest and most experienced company on the Clearwater River, this place is where my seasons in Canada for 6 years have passed.

Doug guiding on the beginnings of Interior Whitewater Expeditions

Working for Doug is like working for a friend who understands and cares about your welfare but always without losing sight of his goals as a businessman, but once the job ends will be the first to show up with a couple of beers to celebrate another day in paradise doing what you love or for a paddling session in the lower section, his river spirit remains intact as from the first day that began with the activity.

Diego guiding on Saber Tooth, biggest rapid on the commercial section

It's hard to describe the feelings within a river while you paddle it on a paper, they are so many and so diverse that it is impossible to deliver the sensations trough this method , but if I had to make an analogy would say to paddle a raft on the Clearwater River in high water is like trying to drive a huge bus torugh a giant endure track, waves blocking the view wont let you see beyond the monster of 5 or 6 meters before your eyes, broad lines but you need to always keep track of where you are on the river, and a boat 22ft with 11 passengers that needs 2 to 4 paddle strokes to get moving. Overtaking the movements of your boat on this river is everything, the timming is not easy to achieve but once you get to read the river and know what to do you're ready to hit the biggest obstacles you've seen in your life and to feel how the power of nature works around you.

Diego safety kayaking on Shark´s Tooth

River rapids are not difficult class III mostly with some sections of class IV, IV + but we are always talking about a volume river which gives it a little extra because if something happened it will take much more to fix things, this 22 feet boats will require much more than the strength of the guide to return to the normal position in case of capsizing, usually they require the help of 2 or 3 people more to do it, so you better stay sharp trough all the descent.

Canada and especially Clearwater have been one of my many homes for a long time, the truth is that it feels as if I where speaking of my home, friends and the story of my place, is a place I hope to return with time to know him for the first time over and over again and enjoy the numerous descents and endless rivers that populate the Canadian lands.